Saturday, August 31, 2013

Ft. Lauderdale to Jacksonville



Our previous posts left off at Ft. Lauderdale as we arrived on Thursday, August 15. We spent the day in port on Friday and Saturday before casting off our lines on Sunday morning.

View of Lighthouse Point Marina and the Nauti Dawg Cafe from our dock

Friday, August 16 was spent doing computer work in less than ideal conditions in the open air marina office on top of a glass display case full of fishing equipment. This was required because they had such poor internet service, and I was unable to get a usable signal 150 feet away with direct line of sight to their router. I get over 500 feet through multiple walls with my Wi Fi signal at home. It was very hot and uncomfortable at this “temporary desk” but in order to make my blog posting, it was required. Nan Ellen was very happy when we finally hit the “post” button and the job was done…. for now. After the ordeal in the marina office was complete, we went back to the boat and grilled chicken for dinner. We watched a little TV before going to bed a little earlier than normal for us.

Grilling chicken at Lighthouse Point

Saturday, August 17 was definitely a day for socialization. My good friend Steve Cantley and his girlfriend Scarlet came down from Palm Beach for breakfast at the Nauti Dawg CafĂ© which is right on the docks in the marina. After a couple of hours of conversation in the restaurant and on the boat, Steve and Scarlet left. 

Nan Ellen, Dave, Scarlet and Steve


As they were leaving, my cousin Bruce Fuller (my father’s brother’s son) and his wife Patty and their kids Marcus and Julia arrived. We took advantage of their transportation and Bruce drove us to the Publix grocery a couple of miles away to replenish our fresh veggies and additional perishables. While we were gone, Patty, Marcus, and Julia hung out at the pool. We came back with a few snacks and spent a leisurely afternoon by the pool before going to dinner. The restaurant was only ½ mile away (as the crow flies), but was over 10 miles away by car on the other side of the waterway. It was a pretty good Italian restaurant and Nan Ellen and I brought home about ½ of the pizza we ordered. 

Nan Ellen, Bruce, Patty, Julia, Marcus, Dave

While we were moving some chairs to take a couple of family photos, Marcus dropped Nan Ellen’s SLR camera. Fortunately, almost everything survived the impact with the concrete. The UV filter that is screwed onto the front of the lens to filter UV sunlight and help to protect the lens did its job and sacrificed itself to save the lens. We then set out on a quest at 8 PM on a Saturday night to find a replacement filter. We tried Wal Mart, and used a pair of channel lock pliers on the shelf to unscrew the broken filter from the lens, but they did not sell a replacement. We then tried the local Best Buy by phone and found they don’t carry it. We looked up several camera stores and none of them were open. Bruce recalled a Wolf Camera at the Boca Raton Mall, so we started in that direction while Bruce tried to call them. He finally got in touch with the info booth at the mall and they said the store had closed. We decided to give up and head back to the boat. Bruce exited I-95 and at that particular exit was a BrandsMart USA. This is a chain I was familiar with and we decided to give them a try. It turns out that they actually had it in stock. Not only did they have it in stock at 9 PM on a Saturday night, but the salesman in the camera department had actually opened up the store we patronize in Kennesaw, GA when we are at home. Talk about a small world! Bruce dropped us off at the boat and we went to bed as we had plans to leave early on Sunday.

Sunday, August 18 had us on the move again. It was still dark as we hit the showers since we had a long day ahead of us to travel the 66 miles to Stuart. The mileage was somewhat long, and we were in an area that required several bridge openings. Most all of them were restricted on their opening schedules.   

Leaving Lighthouse Point Marina in Ft. Lauderdale

Our first stop was to pump out the holding tank before we left the marina. I pulled the boat out of the slip in a 20 knot wind and moved over to the fuel dock for the pumpout. Nan Ellen had to stay on the dock to help control the boat to get me out of the slip safely, and she walked over to the fuel dock. They had several dockhands available to help secure the boat for the pumpout. I was more than a little mildly upset when they told me that I needed to fork over another $10 for the pumpout. This was after taking on over 100 gallons of fuel, and three nights’ worth of slip fees plus electricity. Most marinas that charge a fee waive it when you buy fuel or dockage, but this is the first one we have encountered that asked for more after we bought both fuel and dockage at a premium price. It was a nice place, but they nickel and dime you without making it clear up front. I updated my Active Captain posting to reflect this “surprise” at the end of our stay.

Arriving in downtown West Palm Beach

As we motored northward, we had a great deal of traffic in the ICW, and once we reached Peanut Island just at the Lake Worth inlet from the Atlantic Ocean at Palm Beach, it was a zoo and all the animals were running loose. What a gigantic party of boats, swimmers, kayaks, paddleboards, PWCs, and several homemade water craft! This was party central and was close to chaos with several boats anchored in the middle of navigation in the ICW. We had to go at idle speed and required me to alter course countless times to avoid running into something or somebody.
 
On the beach of Peanut Island

ICW next to Peanut Island

ICW next to the Blue Herron Bridge

This scene was repeated when we arrived in Jupiter, except this time with the added bonus of a 10 knot current screaming through the inlet creating some interesting navigation issues when avoiding other boats. Most of the swimmers were in the ICW north of the inlet where the current was much less. There were several sandbars and gathering of boats and swimmers for the next 3 or 4 miles.

Jupiter Snack Shack
Jupiter Lighthouse

Enjoying a day on the sandbar at Jupiter

Eventually, we made our way up to Stuart and turned into the Okeechobee Waterway for a half mile to get to Manatee Pocket and our marina stop for the night at Mariner’s Cay Marina. This was a nice marina with a pool and we promptly jumped in the pool after a hot day on the water. 

Pool at Mariner's Cay Marina in Stuart

Once back at the boat, I grilled Italian Sausages and red bell peppers for dinner. We watched a little TV before going to bed. I had several e-mails that needed to be sent for Coast Guard Auxiliary business, so I stayed up a couple of hours to get caught up on e-mails.

Monday, August 19 was a short day with our planned mileage of 38 miles to Vero Beach and the Loggerhead marina. We trekked off to the showers and found them to basically be open air showers without air conditioning or heating other than a heat lamp over the dressing area. At least the ceiling fan worked in the men’s shower, but Nan Ellen said the women’s fan was not working. We hurried back to the boat and retreated into the air conditioning to make breakfast. After a leisurely breakfast we cast off our lines around 9:30. This was a MUCH calmer day with very little traffic on the water. We have made an executive decision to NOT travel the populated areas on weekends when possible in the future.

On the way to Vero Beach, we passed the Ft. Pierce inlet on the ICW and I noticed a trawler maneuvering slowly in shallow water near the intersection of the ICW and the inlet waterway. It looked like everyone had on the distinctive orange/red vest color of the Coast Guard. As I approached, I noticed the sign on the rails identifying it as a Coast Guard Auxiliary Patrol Vessel. I tried hailing them on Channel 16 but did not get an answer. Since that boat had a deeper draft than mine, I felt it was safe to motor over to them for a greeting by voice. 

Coast Guard Auxiliary Vessel on Training Patrol

When I identified myself and Nan Ellen as fellow Auxiliarists, one of the crewman identified himself as Moe Zaidan, an Assistant District Staff Officer for Vessel Examinations. Once he saw my face, he recognized me as well. They were conducting practice to qualify members for the Boat Crew Program and requalify one member as a Coxswain. We left them to continue their training, and proceeded north toward Vero Beach.

Loggerhead Marina's Mascot

We arrived early afternoon in Vero Beach at Loggerhead Marina. We had previously been here by car when we visited our good friends Paul and Kathy Bartoszewicz in February and made the decision that this was a definite stop for us. Unfortunately, they were not home as they were on a planned visit in Connecticut. Too bad we missed them, but Vero Beach and Loggerhead was a great stop anyway.

I had noticed on Sunday that the starboard engine had been running hotter than normal, so we called a service tech and made an appointment for Tuesday morning. After we finished the check in process, we hit the pool for a cool down before heading back to the boat for dinner.

Relaxing in the Pool at Loggerhead Marina in Vero Beach (photo taken with my I-Phone in waterproof case)

We then received a call from our good friend and neighbor Cindy at home that Nan Ellen’s mother had somehow locked herself out of the house and Cindy was concerned. After a few minutes and some instructions over the phone, Nan Ellen’s mother Ethel was back in the house. We called Nan Ellen’s cousin in Rome GA to go to our house on Tuesday and check on Ethel.

Tuesday, August 20 was a day to relax in port and wait on the engine repair technician to come to the boat. Danny from Atlantic Mobile Marine Service showed up at 9:00 and diagnosed our problem after a short description of the symptoms. He thought that the problem might be clogged heat exchangers and checked the transmission heat exchanger as it is the first one after the raw water pump. He removed the hose and had me start the engine to verify that we had good flow coming from the pump. Then he looked inside the heat exchanger and saw it was almost completely blocked by scale and packed sand we picked up in Islamorada while trying to get on the dock. He took a long rod and ran it through the cooling passages cleaning out the scale and sand; thereby opening the cooling passages to increased water flow. After a thorough flush with the garden hose and repeated re-rodding of the cooler, he declared it as clean as he could get it. When I started the engine, we had really good flow coming out the exhaust. Since the starboard engine was clogged, I asked him to perform the same operation on the port engine. It was not nearly as clogged and did not take as much effort or flushing to clean it out as the starboard engine did. It also now flows more water out the exhaust than it did before the service. I am cautiously optimistic that this will solve our overheating problem. If not, this procedure will need to be repeated on the engine heat exchangers. He would have cleaned them out, but did not have the proper replacement O-Rings to open them up. Based on my visual estimation of water flow out the exhaust, I believe that our problem is solved… at least for now.

Loggerhead Marina face dock

Just as this operation was concluding, Nan Ellen’s Cousin Rita called and was at our house to pick up Ethel and take her back to Rome, GA until we return home. After a long conversation with both our neighbor Cindy and her Cousin Rita, Nan Ellen assessed the situation and we have determined that Ethel cannot remain at home alone when we are not there to look after her. We will be evaluating our options after speaking with her doctor when we return home. We planned to continue our trip north and position the boat in a safe harbor, probably in Jacksonville before returning home. We have a very full and busy calendar coming up, and will need to leave the boat for a few months. We verified with our insurance company that we can drop back our insurance to “inland waters” as long as we stay past the I-95 Bridge in downtown Jacksonville. This will substantially reduce our insurance rate.
After lunch and some work on the computer, we decided to take the marina bikes for the 1 mile trek to the local Publix. We picked up some bananas, a package of Italian Sausage, and carrots. We had just been to Publix while we were in Ft. Lauderdale, so we did not need much. We are trying to run out of food just about the time we have to stop our Loop and head back home this weekend. This is a skill we have yet to master on the Loop.

Back to the waterfall in the pool

When the groceries were stowed, we hit the pool for a cool down and some relaxation. Then it was back to the boat to grill the Italian Sausages. We took a little more computer time to answer a few e-mails, and then off to bed. We planned to get an early start on Wednesday to get into Cocoa Beach before the marina closes and the chances of thunderstorms goes up.

A unique way of coiling your docklines

Wednesday, August 21 saw us get an early start for the 53 mile trip from Vero Beach to Cocoa Beach. It was an easy run with no navigational issues outside of the very skinny water just outside the channel that is typical of coastal Florida. When we arrived at Cocoa Village Marina, the wind had picked up making docking a bit of a challenge, but they had two people on the dock to grab our lines and fend off the boat from their fixed dock. In short order, we had fenders deployed and all dock lines adjusted. When we checked in, we found the friendliest folks we have seen in Florida, and they are among the top 5 we have encountered anywhere! The entire town is this way as we met several people at restaurants and shops in Cocoa Village. 

Approaching Cocoa Village Marina

The marina Harbormaster told us to see Travis hardware store in the pink building and said we would be amazed. WOW!!! Even if you are not a big hardware store fan, you MUST come see this place. It has been around since 1885 and in the same family ownership for almost as long. If this place doesn’t have it, you don’t need it. Words cannot describe it – it must be experienced. I even bought a pair of replacement yard gloves for $2 while we were shopping. I had not seen them anywhere except at the marina in Ft. Lauderdale where they wanted $4 for a pair.

You have to see this place to believe it

If they don't have it, you don't need it

There are several tourist shops and a few restaurants in town, so we chose Norman’s Raw Bar for a cold one and a dozen oysters for our afternoon snack. Then it was back to the boat for a few e-mails with probably the best Wi-Fi service we have had on the Loop so far. It was probably as good as my service at home – fast enough and good enough to stream video. They also had 20 channels of cable TV, but the signal was not as good as the dozen or so over the air HD channels. You don’t come here to watch TV, so just keeping up with the local news is all we wanted. 

We went to dinner at Ryan’s pizza and brought back half the leftover pizza. We will have it for lunch the next couple of days. Then it was early to bed at Loopers Midnight (9 PM) as we needed to be up early at 5 am to get our showers and have breakfast before sunup. 

We wanted to get started by 7 am as it is 67 miles to Daytona on Thursday, and at 8 MPH, that works out to about 8 hours running time. I wanted to arrive before the West Marine store at the Halifax Harbor Marina closes so I can see if they will exchange my defective 12 volt fans I use at the helm. One of them pops the circuit breaker when plugged in and the other only works at slow speed.

Thursday, August 22 saw us get the earliest start since the Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway. We actually got underway at 7 am after waiting for a storm to pass and the daylight to improve a bit. We could have left sooner if it had been a clear and cloudless morning, but there was a 50% chance of thunderstorms all day. The dock was wet when we went to the showers, but it had stopped raining long enough for us to stay dry after our showers. Cocoa Village Marina was a first class marina, and I wrote a glowing review on Active Captain. About 30 minutes after posting the review, I received an e-mail from the Harbormaster thanking me for my glowing review. If you are passing through the area, you MUST stop at this marina.

Over the past couple of days, I have been severely bitten numerous times by the no-see-ums. I must be allergic to them as my arms and legs are broken out. Fortunately, I had the foresight to see my Dermatologist before leaving for this leg of the trip, and he prescribed Clobetasol, a super strength topical steroid. It works instantly to reduce the inflammation and temporarily removes the itch. I hope I have enough of it to finish this leg of the trip when we stop this weekend in Jacksonville. I wish there was a way to ward off the bites in the first place. For some reason, they attack me and don’t bother Nan Ellen. There has to be some sort of chemical signature issue at play here, but I suppose it just varies by individual. I asked my Dermatologist why they bite me and not Nan Ellen and he just shrugged his shoulders.

We saw multiple pods of dolphins just outside the channel, but they weren’t close enough or on the surface long enough to take photos. When we crossed the Haulover Canal into Mosquito Lagoon, I expected swarms of mosquitos to attack. Fortunately, there was a gentle breeze and we never saw a single one. The water on either side of the marked channel is 1 to 2 feet, so without an airboat, you won’t be going there.

Nan Ellen made a number of phone calls to secure our slip reservations for the remainder of our trip to Jacksonville, and called Bruce, the Harbormaster at Ortega Landing Marina to see if they can help us with a rental car to get back to Atlanta on Sunday. Bruce planned to meet later in the day with Enterprise Car Rental to see if they can put together a program at their marina to become a rental location for marina customers. We will probably be their first customers if this program works out and will allow us to leave Jacksonville on Sunday instead of waiting until Monday morning when Enterprise opens. We called Enterprise Car Rental Manager Willie to set everything up so they can deliver the car on Saturday before we arrive.

On the way to Daytona, we passed Ponce Inlet and the Coast Guard Station. We had been here earlier in the year for a Coast Guard Auxiliary Meeting. This is the first time we have seen it from the water.

Coast Guard Station Ponce Inlet
Lighthouse at Ponce Inlet
 
After arrival in Daytona, we turned in at Halifax Harbor Marina and took on fuel before navigating to our slip. It was just starting to rain as we tied up, but I rinsed the salt off the boat anyway since I did not know how much rain we would get. After this job was done, we walked across the marina grounds to the West Marine store and picked up a new 12 volt fan to replace the one that I have at the helm. The old one only works at low speed and had a bad switch. We stopped at the Blue Grotto next to West Marine for a quick drink before returning to the boat and heading up to the showers. After taking a shower, we dressed for dinner at the Chart House. “Dressing for Dinner” in this case means a nice clean pair of shorts and a shirt with a collar. 

Chart House in Daytona taken from ICW

The Chart House in Daytona is next to the marina and is one of our favorite restaurants in Daytona. Our dockmaster had called Chart House and made dinner reservations for us. When we arrived, we were greeted by name and had personalized printed menus with our name on them. The table had a “VIP” sign on it, and they deducted $10 off our bill for our reservation from the marina. We are also members of the “Landry’s Club”, their frequent diner program, and we redeemed a $25 award from that program making the evening dinner quite affordable! This Chart House is always top notch for both food and service, and this visit was merely a repeat performance. It is our favorite restaurant in Daytona and certainly reason enough all on its own to stop here.  After a long dinner, it was a short walk back to the boat and off to bed again for the early start on Friday.

"Dressed for Dinner" at the Chart House

Friday, August 23 was another early morning so we could get a jump on the expected afternoon thunderstorms. This was a shorter day than Thursday, but the weather was forecast for a good chance of thunderstorms and the percentage went up later in the day. 

Sunrise in Daytona
Leaving Halifax Harbor Marina

Daytona Beach Bridge
Buildings in Daytona

It was a 52 mile trip from Daytona to St. Augustine, again with no navigational issues due to the protected waters of the ICW.
We noticed a big difference in not only the scenery, but economic status of the waterfront residents as we passed through several areas. The Palm Coast area had some very nice waterfront homes, but not on the scale of Ft. Lauderdale and Miami. Some of the trip today was in tidal marsh land, part natural river, and part man made canal. As we arrived at St. Augustine, we were greeted by the St. Augustine Bridge of Lions. Our Harbormaster said that it had been completely rebuilt a couple of years ago and it is now architecturally the same as when it was built in the 1920s. They completely disassembled it, and had to replace several corroded parts before reassembly.  He said they had to make a few safety modifications to meet new DOT codes. It is a signature bridge the residents can be proud of.

St. Augustine Bridge of Lions
St. Augustine Municipal Marina

After docking in the exceptionally strong current, we set off to be tourists in the oldest city in America. We walked for a bit following the advice of the Harbormaster and eventually decided to take the tour train like the one we rode in Key West. I think they are owned by the same company and they hire the same corny drivers with old tired jokes. It finally began to rain lightly, and we got wet in the open air seats. After the hour and a half ride, we walked the historic area and visited a few tourist shops. We bought a bag of gourmet popcorn and then had dinner at O.C. White’s, a restaurant that has been there since 1790. It was directly across the street from the marina, and was convenient. We shared an entrĂ©e of citrus cobia and then walked back to the boat to turn in early again. 

The last day of this leg of the trip began early on Saturday, August 24 when we woke up at 5 am. It was off to the showers and then we had a quick bowl of Cheerio’s before getting underway at first light. 

Leaving St. Augustine

Fishermen going out the St. Augustine Inlet at dawn

We wanted to get to Jacksonville as early as possible, but needed to arrive downtown so we could make the scheduled 2 PM opening of the railroad bridge. It is undergoing maintenance and operates on a strict schedule. As the clearance on this bridge is only 5 feet, almost every boat needs to have it open to pass.

On the way north from St. Augustine, I decided to throttle up and come up on plane to see if we had solved our overheating problem on the starboard engine. At first, the temperature started to climb, but finally leveled off. After a few slow speed zones and having to slow down for other boats (you are responsible for your wake), we were finally able to run up on plane for more than 10 minutes. By this time, the temperature had stabilized in the proper zone for both engines. Operating at speed must have dislodged whatever was blocking the cooling passages. These engines are not designed to operate at low RPM for extended periods, so running them up to planning speed from time to time is a good thing.

Stand up Paddleboarders (2 out of 5 wearing life jackets)

They asked to race us!

They are gaining on us - time to throttle up!

We arrived at our close friend and fellow Auxiliarist David Cawton’s community – Queens Harbour - before 11 AM. We tied up at the courtesy dock and did not need to go through the lock into the fresh water lagoon.

Dave Fuller with David Cawton

Queens Harbour Lock into the fresh water lagoon
Crabbers working the traps just outside the Queens Harbour lock

After a 30 minute visit with David (he is also the Harbormaster), we decided it was time to shove off so we could make it downtown to wait for the railroad bridge opening. We tied up at Jacksonville Landing, a small retail and restaurant complex on the river downtown and is less than ¼ mile from the railroad bridge. 
 
Approaching Downtown Jacksonville

Jacksonville Landing

Tied up waiting for the Railroad Bridge opening


We decided to go to the Mexican restaurant as it has been several weeks since we had eaten Mexican food. After a couple of Margaritas, chips, and Chorizo tacos, it was time to cast off our lines and get in line to wait for the bridge. They opened it exactly on time at 2 PM and we promptly passed through on our way for the final 3 miles to Ortega Landing Marina. 

Railroad Bridge in Downtown Jacksonville

Final Bridge this trip - The Ortega River Bridge with Downtown Jacksonville in the background

We had reserved a slip and had our assignment so we went directly to the slip and tied up. We then walked up to the office to sign the papers and also pick up our rental car that the Marina had arranged for us. After a short tour of the facilities, we went back to the boat for a final wash down to get the salt off.  We did not need to scrub the boat as it was pretty clean, but we did need to rinse it off. This chore was not as bad this time as it had been overcast all day and the temperature was cooler. When we took the bikes off the bow and opened them up, one of them had a little water in the bag, so we took both bikes out and turned the bags inside out so they would dry thoroughly. We plan to store the bikes inside the boat for security while we are gone from the boat.  We swept out the cockpit and took out the carpet to shake it off. We were not trying to get it spotlessly clean as we need to keep the cockpit as dry as possible since we have to leave the boat early on Sunday morning, and it would not have time to thoroughly dry before we left. We moved all the life jackets and unused dock line downstairs in the cabin so they will not mold or mildew in this hot and humid climate. We always leave the air conditioner running while we are away from the boat to keep the humidity under control and eliminate mold and mildew in the cabin.

Pool and Hot Tub at Ortega Landing Marina

It was time for a little rest and relaxation after another day on the water, so we decided to check out the pool.  When we arrived at the pool, we found it a little cool, so we opted for the hot tub instead. After about 10 minutes, we were getting hot and decided it was time to get out and dry off. We then walked back to the boat for some leftover Italian Sausage and corn / black bean salad for dinner. I typed up this narrative to the blog before going to bed at Looper’s Midnight (9 PM). We need to be up early again on Sunday so we can finish packing up the boat and making it ready to sit here in the marina unused for a few months.

Sunday, August 25 was our last morning on the boat and we started at 5 am since we had much work to perform before leaving the boat to go home. We had to remove the sheets and mattress pad, clean out the air conditioner air filter, finish packing up all our clothes and other items to take home, plus empty both refrigerators and defrost the cockpit refrigerator. We will defrost the cabin refrigerator and the freezer on our next visit to the boat. It took several loads in the dock cart to pack the car, but we still had more to do on the boat. We cleaned the sea strainers on the engines and the air conditioner, I checked and filled the inverter batteries, and checked the engines oil levels. The engine room checks done, it was finally time to take our showers and get on the road.

We shoved off around 10 am which beat my expectations by a couple of hours. An uneventful 6 hour trip back home followed, and we arrived around 4 pm to relieve our good friend Mary Pitts who had been staying with Ethel since earlier in the afternoon. Our other good friend Dianne Dimmick had stayed with Ethel on Saturday, spent Saturday night at our house, and finally had to leave early afternoon Sunday. Nan Ellen’s cousin Rita deserves special recognition for picking up Ethel and taking her to Rome to look after her until the weekend. Our friends and neighbors Cindy and Larry Maxson got this whole thing started with a phone call to us on Monday and took care of the immediate needs and Ethel’s safety. We are deeply indebted to all who helped us through this family emergency.

Here is a quick summary of our progress on the Loop so far. Total mileage is 1971. We have traveled 1209 miles in 2013 and we traveled 762 miles in 2012. We have transited 17 locks since starting in Chattanooga. With the planned trip of 7200 miles, we are now approximately 27% complete for our Loop. 

This pause in the Loop was planned, but the location and timing were both earlier than expected.  We had expected to go to Brunswick or Savannah Georgia or possibly somewhere in South Carolina and had about another week and a half planned on our calendar before coming home. At least, the boat is closer to home, in a safe location, and at a lower cost than if we had to leave it further south.
We hope to return to the boat during the fall or winter months to explore the St. Johns River, and anticipate leaving the boat in Jacksonville for a while. It is in as safe an area as possible from storms, and our insurer agreed by moving our coverage area back to Inland waters. This saved us approximately 2/3 on our boat insurance from the coverage we previously had while in coastal waters.

We are currently evaluating our options for Ethel and will be getting her doctor involved in the decision. Our calendar is full of personal business and Coast Guard Auxiliary business for the next two months, so it will be November before we have the next blank place on the calendar. There are too many unknowns at this time to predict when we will continue our northward trip, but most likely, it will not be until the annual migration north by the snowbirds next spring.

 I will do an interim posting to keep everyone up to date with us before we resume the Loop, especially if we are able to explore the St. John’s River.

Friday, August 16, 2013

Ft. Myers to Ft. Lauderdale via the Keys



Our previous post covered our pause in the Loop up to Ft. Myers.

On Friday, August 8, we resumed our Loop from Ft. Myers. It was an uneventful resumption as we plied the Caloosahatchee River downstream towards the Gulf of Mexico. As we were motoring along, Nan Ellen noticed a rather large sportfisherman style boat coming up behind us, but it was not moving much faster than us. As I slowed down for the pass, we waved at the captain, and it was none other than Eric, our Harbour Master from Legacy Harbour. He was taking a customer’s boat to be hauled out of the water for service. 

Leaving Legacy Harbour Marina and Ft. Myers

As we proceeded into the Gulf, the waves slowly built. At first, it was 1 to 2 foot waves and they built to 2 to 3 foot for most of the trip, but we did have occasions where we were taking 4 foot plus waves. This is no problem for our boat, but it does result in a great deal of spray coming off the bow as we plowed through the waves. Other than some rocking and rolling and a little salt spray, it was a fairly easy day for the 60 mile day with about 40 miles of it in open water.

Looking back on the Sanibel Causeway Bridge and the Caloosahatchee River from the Gulf of Mexico

We finally arrived at Marco Island and took on fuel before going to our slip at the Esplanade Marina. This marina is in a complex of Condos, Restaurants, and Offices. We had previously scouted it out by car while on our trip to Miami in June.

Esplanade Marina - Tip Sie Waci on the left of photo
Former 7th District Auxiliary Commodore Walter Jaskiewicz and his wife Barbara at dinner

We met former 7th District Coast Guard Auxiliary Commodore Walter Jaskiewicz and his wife Barbara for dinner at one of the restaurants. After a great dinner and a few drinks, we went back to the boat for an early evening as we wanted to get started early in the morning.

Sunset view from our dock at the Esplanade Marina on Marco Island

Saturday, August 10 had us getting our showers before dawn, and then we had a quick bowl of Cheerios before shoving off. We wanted to get an early start as Saturday’s journey took us over 60 miles of open water in the Gulf of Mexico. The wind was forecast to be southeast at 15 to 20 and this meant that we would be expecting larger waves today, and we would be generally taking them almost directly on the bow. We ran as far as 18 miles offshore in order to be in sufficiently deep water to be safe. This gave the wind plenty of space to build the waves. We started out with 2 to 3 footers and they quickly built to 4 to 5 with an occasional 6. Today was decidedly the roughest day with the largest waves we have encountered so far on this trip. After we passed some particularly shallow areas south of Marco, I turned in toward shore to try to get into calmer water. This technique reduced the waves to 2 to 3 eventually, but we did not see calm water until less than a mile before the anchorage at Little Shark River.

Anchorage at Little Shark River in Everglades National Park

When we arrived at the anchorage, there was one sailboat anchored near the entrance of the river. We went past them and anchored in a protected spot. Even though it was just 4 PM when we arrived, it was time for happy hour. After all, it’s 5 o’clock somewhere!
 
It's 5 O'Clock Somewhere!!!!

This anchorage is in the middle of Everglades National Park. There is nothing out here except wildlife – lot of birds especially. We had a nice breeze and it was comfortable while I cooked a couple of pork tenderloins and a Vidalia onion for dinner.

Getting ready to grill the Pork Tenderloins at Little Shark River anchorage

 We will have the leftovers for lunch the next couple of days. We definitely needed to run the generator for the air conditioning overnight in spite of a nice breeze. As you might expect, there are plenty of bugs, and the biting flies are notoriously pesky. After dinner, we had a fresh peach that we bought at the Ft. Myers farmers market for desert. We went to bed early as we wanted to get an early start at dawn due to more open water between the Little Shark River anchorage and Islamorada.

Sunset in Little Shark River

We were up before dawn on Sunday, August 11. After a quick bowl of Cheerios, we got underway at daybreak. We were able to run closer to the mainland today, and it resulted in a smoother ride overall. However, I was puzzled by the waves and how they were related to the reefs and mainland. You would expect that with the mainland blocking most of the wind, it would be calmer, and that was true. I expected that downwind of the reefs would be calmer and upwind would be rougher with higher seas. Our experience today was exactly the opposite. On the downwind side of the reefs were the biggest waves and upwind of them it was much calmer. This was in open water with no visible land mass – very puzzling indeed. The obvious answer is directly related to the shape and slope of the bottom, but none of this water was more than 12 feet deep!
 
Floating Sea Grass in very shallow water off Cape Sable

We ran across several widespread patches of floating sea grass, and I was concerned that some of it would be sucked up in the cooling water intakes for the engines. There was so much of the grass, it was impossible to avoid all of it, but I weaved my way through the largest clumps of it.  I watched the temps closely after going through the grass, but the temps never went up. I planned to check the sea strainers on both engines after reaching our destination and the engines cool off overnight. The generator and air conditioner were not running, so there was no danger the sea strainers for them would be clogged.

The shallow water alarm went off so many times, I just shut it off. I have the depth sounder for the Chartplotter adjusted to read zero when something on the boat (props or rudders) will hit bottom. I then added two feet to this setting for the shallow water alarm which means that there is still two feet of water before we hit bottom when the alarm sounds. The shallow water alarm will not allow a setting less than 2 feet, so anytime the Chartplotter depth reads anything less than 2 feet, the alarm goes off. Many times, we were at one foot or less, but never actually hit bottom. My other depth sounder is set to read actual water depth and it never got below 4.5 feet. We draw 3.5 feet. It is VERY shallow out there, even in the suggested channel. In order to have water deeper than 10 feet requires a distance of at least 15 miles offshore. The area around Cape Sable is the shallowest open water we have encountered on the journey so far. Cape Sable is the southwestern most point of the mainland and accessible only by boat. There are several primitive beach campgrounds on the three points of the Cape. You would have to be a very dedicated outdoorsperson to camp in this area. This is REALLY in the middle of nowhere.

As we approached the Keys, we obtained voice service on the cell phone at first, and later we had data as we got closer. Nan Ellen called her mother as we had been out of touch and off the grid for about 48 hours. Nan Ellen calls her mother every day and checks on her. 

Our first visual sign of civilization was the Long Key Viaduct. It stands 23 feet above the ocean and carries US 1 over a wide channel from Florida Bay to the Atlantic Ocean. We finally intersected the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) and turned northeast to parallel the Keys. We proceeded northeast to Islamorada and our stop at Plantation Yacht Harbor Marina. As we transited this area just outside the Everglades National Park boundary, we were in a mine field – of crab and lobster pots. They are EVERYWHERE including the middle of the marked ICW channel. You definitely do not want to be in this area at night. I am sure the locals know where to go, but I would not try it in limited visibility or at night.

One of HUNDREDS of Crab or Lobster pot markers near the Keys

There was some confusion and a breakdown of communication with the Plantation Yacht Harbor Marina Dockmaster. We were not able to reach him on the radio on channel 16 or their working channel (10), and finally had to call him on my cell phone.

Lighthouse marking the entrance to Plantation Yacht Harbor

I understood something completely different from what he actually said when he gave me approach and docking instructions. He told me to turn to starboard (right) as I came around the lighthouse that marks the entrance and go to the SECOND Opening. I thought he meant the second dock. If he had said the second opening on the FIRST dock, I would have understood that instruction. What I did was to go to the second dock and pass into MUCH shallower water intended for shallow draft boats. I quickly began to churn up the bottom, but never actually hit bottom. I quickly realized that this was not going to work and as I reversed the starboard prop to turn, it washed sand up into the cooling water intake for this engine. Within seconds, the high temp alarm went off on the starboard engine as the temp quickly climbed due to sucking up the sand. I did not dare shut the engine down as it would be next to impossible to maneuver the boat in a 20 knot wind with only one engine. Fortunately, the Mercury Smartcraft system allows continued engine operation, but at much reduced RPM. All I needed was idle speed to get safely on the dock. By this time, the dockmaster finally showed up on the dock and started directing me to a tight spot that would require me to do things with the overheating engine that it would not let me do. I told him that I had an overheating engine due to sucking up the sand and that I needed a spot immediately so I could shut down the engine. He told me to put it in a spot at the end of the dock and then he and his partner pulled me into position.

Finally on the dock safely

They allowed us to stay in this spot and hooked up the power and water for us before departing the dock. I wanted to check the sea strainers of the engines immediately in case we needed to move the boat, and found a minimal amount of sand in both engines sea strainers. There was some sea grass in both strainers. I waited to check the generator and air conditioner strainers as I had to crawl over hot engines to get to them. I suppose that most of the sand passed through the cooling system and cleared itself. Sand is NOT a good thing for the engines or the flexible rubber impellers that actually pump the cooling water. I will keep an eye on the temps as we start our next leg, but it seemed to be OK as the starboard engine quickly cooled down when I restarted it after cleaning the strainers.

Interesting sign in the office when we checked in

Next big job of the day was to wash off the salt spray. We had accumulated a great deal of salt in our two previous days in open water. Due to the direction of the waves relative to our course, we took a nearly constant amount of salt spray. The boat was basically clean, but just coated in dried salt. We broke out the cleaning supplies and set out to hose and brush the cockpit, and then the same treatment for the exterior of the boat. We hung the carpet on the rail and the carpet was almost dry by the time we went to bed due to the 20 knot winds, but we left it up overnight to thoroughly dry. It had been a long day, so we had leftover pork tenderloin and a baked sweet potato for dinner and went to bed exhausted.

Monday, August 12 was a day to be tourists. We rented a car and drove to Key West. We stopped for lunch on Stock Island at a local’s restaurant named the Hogfish Bar and Grill. You really have to know where it is as it is not on the way to anything. Their specialty is local hogfish and it was great! I think we were the only tourists there.


Hogfish Bar and Grill Weather prognosticator

It had been several years since we had been to Key West, and it really has not changed much in those years. It is still a unique city with an eclectic mix of residents. It is much more expensive that I recall from year’s past. Parking near Mallory Square cost $32 for the day, and a ride on the Conch Train was $27 each. Bottled water cost $3.

Number one tourist photo opportunity


Dave and the Conch Train

After the Conch Train ride, we had some time to kill, so we visited The Porch, a local’s bar. We were definitely the only tourists there as each patron coming in knew one another and the bartender. The bartender was having a going away party and was moving to California. After a couple of craft draft beers for Nan Ellen (Sweetwater 420 from Douglasville GA and Angry Orchard - tastes like apple cider with a hint of beer) and a glass of water for me, we moved on to Mallory Square for the sunset. We still had some time to kill, so we went to El Meson De Pepe, a Cuban restaurant next to the square. We had an appetizer with pork, beef, fish, and plantains. Nan Ellen had a Mojito and I had a mango daiquiri.

Sunset at Mallory Square on Key West

Then it was time for sunset, the requisite photos and the Mallory Square performers. The Coconut man was the first character we saw, and then we watched a juggler atop a ladder and then on top of a 20 foot unicycle juggling fire sticks. He was entertaining and definitely had the largest crowd around him.

Mallory Square performer - he had a big crowd!

Finally, it was time to make the 2 hour trip from Key West back to the boat and bed time after a long day of being tourists.

Tuesday, August 13 was another day to do laundry, go to the grocery, and work on this blog before visiting the local Coast Guard Auxiliary Flotilla meeting at the Islamorada Coast Guard Station. 

Nan Ellen continued working on our plan for the next leg of the trip that will take us up to the Ft. Lauderdale and Palm Beach area where we will spend some time visiting my family in Boca Raton, and a close friend in West Palm Beach. 

We saw several old friends (our primary reason for coming to Islamorada) at the Auxiliary meeting and were able to take a tour of the Coast Guard Small Boat Station at Snake Creek and US 1. The Flotilla holds their meetings at the station in a conference / relaxation room complete with about a half dozen leather recliners. This is the most deluxe meeting location for the Auxiliary we have been to so far. Usually, Auxiliary meetings are held in community centers, schools, and in one case, on an outside deck next to the lake. 

After the meeting, we went to dinner at Mile 88, a great restaurant named for its mile marker on Highway 1. It is right next door to Lookout Lodge, a hotel owned by fellow Auxiliarist and friend Don Zinner.

Wednesday, August 14 started out early with showers and breakfast before dawn so we could be in line and ready to take on fuel and get the holding tank pumped out before leaving Islamorada. We pulled into position on the fuel dock just as the dockmaster arrived to open. After he turned on everything, we pumped out the holding tank and filled up the fuel. We never pass up the opportunity for a pump out, and watch our fuel carefully while strategically looking for the best price. By the time we performed all these chores and settled up our bill, it was after 9 am. We were able to leave the keys to the rental car with the dockmaster and called the rental car company to tell them to come get the car. Later in the day, they sent me an e-mail with their receipt for the rental. Usually, you must actually return the car to close out the rental, but they are more laid back in the Keys, so it did not totally surprise me that they allowed us to simply leave the car at the marina.


Leaving Plantation Yacht Harbor and Islamorada

Today’s trip was across semi-open water as we proceeded north toward our destination for the day at an anchorage in Biscayne Bay just south of downtown Miami. It was an interesting trip through more shallow water (no surprise here) and several canal cuts through Mangroves.

One of several canal cuts through the Mangroves


While we had seen several Dolphins on this trip, these are the first good photos of them and the only ones so far of them alongside our boat.




We finally came to the first bridge which carries US 1 going from the mainland to Key Largo. After a few more miles, we crossed under the Card Sound Bridge which is an alternate route to the Keys and is the preferred route for those going to North Key Largo and the resorts on the north end of the island. 

We finally came into Biscayne Bay and came across the first commercial tow we had seen since Tampa Bay. As we approached Miami, my AIS (Automatic Identification System) went off with a warning and it showed the commercial tow. AIS functions like a transponder on an aircraft by giving the name of the boat, its heading and speed. I have my alarm radius set to 2 miles so anytime another AIS signal comes within this radius, an alarm goes off. This is exceptionally helpful in the rivers with all the bends and blind spots, but is less useful in open water like Biscayne Bay.  The biggest advantage is to be able to call a ship by name on the radio. It greatly enhances the possibility they will respond on the radio. Larger commercial ships are required to have this equipment and it is optional for pleasure craft like us.

Commercial Tow in Biscayne Bay with Miami skyline in background

As we approached the turn toward the anchorage, we came across a long line of boats at anchor in Biscayne Bay. There must have been 20 or 30 of them in all shapes and sizes including some 50 foot plus ones. We tried to figure out why all these boats were basically in line and at anchor in the Bay. We crossed more shallow water and arrived at the anchorage in No Name Harbor. This is part of a county park and they supposedly charge for anchoring. There was no one to collect, so we did not bother looking for someone to give money to, especially with all the signs saying “no mooring allowed”. It was a quiet and very well protected anchorage with two other boats in there with us for the night. This is a popular spot for cruisers to gather before going to the Bahamas. We assume that the boats at anchor in the Bay were gathering for a flotilla crossing to the Bahamas.

Sunset from the anchorage at No Name Harbor in Biscayne Bay just south of Miami

We had a casual breakfast before leaving the anchorage about 9:30 on Thursday, August 15. We crossed the remaining 5 miles of Biscayne Bay and came into Miami. All the boats we saw at anchor in the Bay yesterday were gone when we passed this area. From here, the scenery changes dramatically. Gone is the open water and low land of the Keys. Replacing it were the skyscrapers and tall condos of Miami.

View of Rickenbacker Causeway bridge with Miami skyline from Biscayne Bay

As we passed through Miami and into south Broward County and Ft. Lauderdale, we came across the first drawbridge on this leg of the trip. We would encounter three such bridges today that required opening for us to pass as our minimum air draft (clearance under a bridge) is 13 feet. The guidebooks list them at 12 feet at high tide and with a 3 foot tide; we probably could have passed under them without an opening. Unfortunately, it was high tide and the actual height was 10 feet or less on all three according to the tide boards on the fenders guarding the bridge. We were fortunate that our timing was good on all three and only had to wait a maximum of 5 minutes for an opening. These busy bridges have restricted openings on the half hour or quarter hour.

Typical drawbridge in ICW

Almost the entire trip from Miami to Ft. Lauderdale is idle speed with no wake or slow speed with minimum wake. In some places, the signs say maximum wake of 15 inches. The sides of the canals are concrete, so whatever wake you put out reflects back into the channel. This makes it rough for everyone else, and we were rocked numerous times by other discourteous boaters. As I mentioned previously, Florida does not have a 100 foot rule like Georgia making it mandatory to be at idle speed within 100 feet of other boats. We did encounter one professional captain who did a slow pass and I came back to idle to allow him to pass. Not 100% of boaters here are discourteous, but they make up the MAJORITY of boaters. It is refreshing to come across another courteous and likely, a professional captain.

Stand Up Paddleboarders - notice the life jackets?

There are countless beautiful homes, big boats, and not much active boat traffic on a weekday during this part of the trip. I’m sure that all changes on the weekends! After our 43 mile journey, we finally arrived at Lighthouse Point Marina just north of the Hillsboro Inlet.

Cleaned up and ready for dinner

We received recommendations on this marina from the guidebooks, Active Captain, and the personal recommendation of our local Division Commander for the Coast Guard Auxiliary. It has all the usual amenities of a marina with the addition of a good restaurant on the dock, and a pool. We filled up with fuel and tied up before hitting the showers.

Highly recommended by the marina staff - formerly a 1920's casino and rum-running speakeasy

For dinner, we went to Cap’s Place, a 1920’s bootlegger’s restaurant that looks just like it did way back then. We caught the water shuttle at their parking lot next to the marina. They have no place for people to park at the restaurant, so they have their own lot next to the marina. The boat runs continuously picking up and dropping off patrons. You can almost see our boat (behind the big blue boat on the left side of the picture) at dock in the marina.

View of our marina from Cap's Place dock

The food here was wonderful, but a little pricy. We had probably the best crab cake we have had in years, a hearts of palm salad (not the canned stuff) that was completely different than expected, and yellowtail snapper in a lemon sauce. The Key Lime pie was good, but not as good as the first three menu items.

National landmark - Cap's Place - Broward County's oldest restaurant

We came back to the boat for an early turn in after watching a little TV.

Friday, August 16 is the day to actually post to this blog and to relax in the pool. We edited our photos and finished this narrative before lunch. After lunch, we needed to move to the fuel dock office to get a reliable Wi-Fi signal to actually post this blog. Saturday is our day for friends and family to visit and we plan to leave Ft. Lauderdale on Sunday morning. Our next destination is an anchorage in Hobe Sound which is midway between Palm Beach and Jupiter. After one night here, we plan to move on to Vero Beach for a couple of days. Unfortunately, our good friends Paul and Kathy Bartoszewicz are away in Connecticut and we will miss them in Vero. After Vero, we plan to go to the Coco Beach area. After that, Nan Ellen will need to do additional research to determine our stops.

Sign on a truck in the parking lot at the Marina

Stay tuned for more adventures to come.