Ft. Myers to Ft. Lauderdale via the Keys

Our previous post covered our pause in the Loop up to Ft. Myers.

On Friday, August 8, we resumed our Loop from Ft. Myers. It was an uneventful resumption as we plied the Caloosahatchee River downstream towards the Gulf of Mexico. As we were motoring along, Nan Ellen noticed a rather large sportfisherman style boat coming up behind us, but it was not moving much faster than us. As I slowed down for the pass, we waved at the captain, and it was none other than Eric, our Harbour Master from Legacy Harbour. He was taking a customer’s boat to be hauled out of the water for service. 

Leaving Legacy Harbour Marina and Ft. Myers

As we proceeded into the Gulf, the waves slowly built. At first, it was 1 to 2 foot waves and they built to 2 to 3 foot for most of the trip, but we did have occasions where we were taking 4 foot plus waves. This is no problem for our boat, but it does result in a great deal of spray coming off the bow as we plowed through the waves. Other than some rocking and rolling and a little salt spray, it was a fairly easy day for the 60 mile day with about 40 miles of it in open water.

Looking back on the Sanibel Causeway Bridge and the Caloosahatchee River from the Gulf of Mexico

We finally arrived at Marco Island and took on fuel before going to our slip at the Esplanade Marina. This marina is in a complex of Condos, Restaurants, and Offices. We had previously scouted it out by car while on our trip to Miami in June.

Esplanade Marina - Tip Sie Waci on the left of photo

Former 7th District Auxiliary Commodore Walter Jaskiewicz and his wife Barbara at dinner

We met former 7^th District Coast Guard Auxiliary Commodore Walter Jaskiewicz and his wife Barbara for dinner at one of the restaurants. After a great dinner and a few drinks, we went back to the boat for an early evening as we wanted to get started early in the morning.

Sunset view from our dock at the Esplanade Marina on Marco Island

Saturday, August 10 had us getting our showers before dawn, and then we had a quick bowl of Cheerios before shoving off. We wanted to get an early start as Saturday’s journey took us over 60 miles of open water in the Gulf of Mexico. The wind was forecast to be southeast at 15 to 20 and this meant that we would be expecting larger waves today, and we would be generally taking them almost directly on the bow. We ran as far as 18 miles offshore in order to be in sufficiently deep water to be safe. This gave the wind plenty of space to build the waves. We started out with 2 to 3 footers and they quickly built to 4 to 5 with an occasional 6. Today was decidedly the roughest day with the largest waves we have encountered so far on this trip. After we passed some particularly shallow areas south of Marco, I turned in toward shore to try to get into calmer water. This technique reduced the waves to 2 to 3 eventually, but we did not see calm water until less than a mile before the anchorage at Little Shark River.

Anchorage at Little Shark River in Everglades National Park

When we arrived at the anchorage, there was one sailboat anchored near the entrance of the river. We went past them and anchored in a protected spot. Even though it was just 4 PM when we arrived, it was time for happy hour. After all, it’s 5 o’clock somewhere!
 

It's 5 O'Clock Somewhere!!!!

This anchorage is in the middle of Everglades National Park. There is nothing out here except wildlife – lot of birds especially. We had a nice breeze and it was comfortable while I cooked a couple of pork tenderloins and a Vidalia onion for dinner.

Getting ready to grill the Pork Tenderloins at Little Shark River anchorage

 We will have the leftovers for lunch the next couple of days. We definitely needed to run the generator for the air conditioning overnight in spite of a nice breeze. As you might expect, there are plenty of bugs, and the biting flies are notoriously pesky. After dinner, we had a fresh peach that we bought at the Ft. Myers farmers market for desert. We went to bed early as we wanted to get an early start at dawn due to more open water between the Little Shark River anchorage and Islamorada.

Sunset in Little Shark River

We were up before dawn on Sunday, August 11. After a quick bowl of Cheerios, we got underway at daybreak. We were able to run closer to the mainland today, and it resulted in a smoother ride overall. However, I was puzzled by the waves and how they were related to the reefs and mainland. You would expect that with the mainland blocking most of the wind, it would be calmer, and that was true. I expected that downwind of the reefs would be calmer and upwind would be rougher with higher seas. Our experience today was exactly the opposite. On the downwind side of the reefs were the biggest waves and upwind of them it was much calmer. This was in open water with no visible land mass – very puzzling indeed. The obvious answer is directly related to the shape and slope of the bottom, but none of this water was more than 12 feet deep!
 

Floating Sea Grass in very shallow water off Cape Sable

We ran across several widespread patches of floating sea grass, and I was concerned that some of it would be sucked up in the cooling water intakes for the engines. There was so much of the grass, it was impossible to avoid all of it, but I weaved my way through the largest clumps of it.  I watched the temps closely after going through the grass, but the temps never went up. I planned to check the sea strainers on both engines after reaching our destination and the engines cool off overnight. The generator and air conditioner were not running, so there was no danger the sea strainers for them would be clogged.

The shallow water alarm went off so many times, I just shut it off. I have the depth sounder for the Chartplotter adjusted to read zero when something on the boat (props or rudders) will hit bottom. I then added two feet to this setting for the shallow water alarm which means that there is still two feet of water before we hit bottom when the alarm sounds. The shallow water alarm will not allow a setting less than 2 feet, so anytime the Chartplotter depth reads anything less than 2 feet, the alarm goes off. Many times, we were at one foot or less, but never actually hit bottom. My other depth sounder is set to read actual water depth and it never got below 4.5 feet. We draw 3.5 feet. It is VERY shallow out there, even in the suggested channel. In order to have water deeper than 10 feet requires a distance of at least 15 miles offshore. The area around Cape Sable is the shallowest open water we have encountered on the journey so far. Cape Sable is the southwestern most point of the mainland and accessible only by boat. There are several primitive beach campgrounds on the three points of the Cape. You would have to be a very dedicated outdoorsperson to camp in this area. This is REALLY in the middle of nowhere.

As we approached the Keys, we obtained voice service on the cell phone at first, and later we had data as we got closer. Nan Ellen called her mother as we had been out of touch and off the grid for about 48 hours. Nan Ellen calls her mother every day and checks on her. 

Our first visual sign of civilization was the Long Key Viaduct. It stands 23 feet above the ocean and carries US 1 over a wide channel from Florida Bay to the Atlantic Ocean. We finally intersected the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) and turned northeast to parallel the Keys. We proceeded northeast to Islamorada and our stop at Plantation Yacht Harbor Marina. As we transited this area just outside the Everglades National Park boundary, we were in a mine field – of crab and lobster pots. They are EVERYWHERE including the middle of the marked ICW channel. You definitely do not want to be in this area at night. I am sure the locals know where to go, but I would not try it in limited visibility or at night.

One of HUNDREDS of Crab or Lobster pot markers near the Keys

There was some confusion and a breakdown of communication with the Plantation Yacht Harbor Marina Dockmaster. We were not able to reach him on the radio on channel 16 or their working channel (10), and finally had to call him on my cell phone.

Lighthouse marking the entrance to Plantation Yacht Harbor

I understood something completely different from what he actually said when he gave me approach and docking instructions. He told me to turn to starboard (right) as I came around the lighthouse that marks the entrance and go to the SECOND Opening. I thought he meant the second dock. If he had said the second opening on the FIRST dock, I would have understood that instruction. What I did was to go to the second dock and pass into MUCH shallower water intended for shallow draft boats. I quickly began to churn up the bottom, but never actually hit bottom. I quickly realized that this was not going to work and as I reversed the starboard prop to turn, it washed sand up into the cooling water intake for this engine. Within seconds, the high temp alarm went off on the starboard engine as the temp quickly climbed due to sucking up the sand. I did not dare shut the engine down as it would be next to impossible to maneuver the boat in a 20 knot wind with only one engine. Fortunately, the Mercury Smartcraft system allows continued engine operation, but at much reduced RPM. All I needed was idle speed to get safely on the dock. By this time, the dockmaster finally showed up on the dock and started directing me to a tight spot that would require me to do things with the overheating engine that it would not let me do. I told him that I had an overheating engine due to sucking up the sand and that I needed a spot immediately so I could shut down the engine. He told me to put it in a spot at the end of the dock and then he and his partner pulled me into position.

Finally on the dock safely

They allowed us to stay in this spot and hooked up the power and water for us before departing the dock. I wanted to check the sea strainers of the engines immediately in case we needed to move the boat, and found a minimal amount of sand in both engines sea strainers. There was some sea grass in both strainers. I waited to check the generator and air conditioner strainers as I had to crawl over hot engines to get to them. I suppose that most of the sand passed through the cooling system and cleared itself. Sand is NOT a good thing for the engines or the flexible rubber impellers that actually pump the cooling water. I will keep an eye on the temps as we start our next leg, but it seemed to be OK as the starboard engine quickly cooled down when I restarted it after cleaning the strainers.

Interesting sign in the office when we checked in

Next big job of the day was to wash off the salt spray. We had accumulated a great deal of salt in our two previous days in open water. Due to the direction of the waves relative to our course, we took a nearly constant amount of salt spray. The boat was basically clean, but just coated in dried salt. We broke out the cleaning supplies and set out to hose and brush the cockpit, and then the same treatment for the exterior of the boat. We hung the carpet on the rail and the carpet was almost dry by the time we went to bed due to the 20 knot winds, but we left it up overnight to thoroughly dry. It had been a long day, so we had leftover pork tenderloin and a baked sweet potato for dinner and went to bed exhausted.

Monday, August 12 was a day to be tourists. We rented a car and drove to Key West. We stopped for lunch on Stock Island at a local’s restaurant named the Hogfish Bar and Grill. You really have to know where it is as it is not on the way to anything. Their specialty is local hogfish and it was great! I think we were the only tourists there.

Hogfish Bar and Grill Weather prognosticator

It had been several years since we had been to Key West, and it really has not changed much in those years. It is still a unique city with an eclectic mix of residents. It is much more expensive that I recall from year’s past. Parking near Mallory Square cost $32 for the day, and a ride on the Conch Train was $27 each. Bottled water cost $3.

Number one tourist photo opportunity

Dave and the Conch Train

After the Conch Train ride, we had some time to kill, so we visited The Porch, a local’s bar. We were definitely the only tourists there as each patron coming in knew one another and the bartender. The bartender was having a going away party and was moving to California. After a couple of craft draft beers for Nan Ellen (Sweetwater 420 from Douglasville GA and Angry Orchard - tastes like apple cider with a hint of beer) and a glass of water for me, we moved on to Mallory Square for the sunset. We still had some time to kill, so we went to El Meson De Pepe, a Cuban restaurant next to the square. We had an appetizer with pork, beef, fish, and plantains. Nan Ellen had a Mojito and I had a mango daiquiri.

Sunset at Mallory Square on Key West

Then it was time for sunset, the requisite photos and the Mallory Square performers. The Coconut man was the first character we saw, and then we watched a juggler atop a ladder and then on top of a 20 foot unicycle juggling fire sticks. He was entertaining and definitely had the largest crowd around him.

Mallory Square performer - he had a big crowd!

Finally, it was time to make the 2 hour trip from Key West back to the boat and bed time after a long day of being tourists.

Tuesday, August 13 was another day to do laundry, go to the grocery, and work on this blog before visiting the local Coast Guard Auxiliary Flotilla meeting at the Islamorada Coast Guard Station. 

Nan Ellen continued working on our plan for the next leg of the trip that will take us up to the Ft. Lauderdale and Palm Beach area where we will spend some time visiting my family in Boca Raton, and a close friend in West Palm Beach. 

We saw several old friends (our primary reason for coming to Islamorada) at the Auxiliary meeting and were able to take a tour of the Coast Guard Small Boat Station at Snake Creek and US 1. The Flotilla holds their meetings at the station in a conference / relaxation room complete with about a half dozen leather recliners. This is the most deluxe meeting location for the Auxiliary we have been to so far. Usually, Auxiliary meetings are held in community centers, schools, and in one case, on an outside deck next to the lake. 

After the meeting, we went to dinner at Mile 88, a great restaurant named for its mile marker on Highway 1. It is right next door to Lookout Lodge, a hotel owned by fellow Auxiliarist and friend Don Zinner.

Wednesday, August 14 started out early with showers and breakfast before dawn so we could be in line and ready to take on fuel and get the holding tank pumped out before leaving Islamorada. We pulled into position on the fuel dock just as the dockmaster arrived to open. After he turned on everything, we pumped out the holding tank and filled up the fuel. We never pass up the opportunity for a pump out, and watch our fuel carefully while strategically looking for the best price. By the time we performed all these chores and settled up our bill, it was after 9 am. We were able to leave the keys to the rental car with the dockmaster and called the rental car company to tell them to come get the car. Later in the day, they sent me an e-mail with their receipt for the rental. Usually, you must actually return the car to close out the rental, but they are more laid back in the Keys, so it did not totally surprise me that they allowed us to simply leave the car at the marina.

Leaving Plantation Yacht Harbor and Islamorada

Today’s trip was across semi-open water as we proceeded north toward our destination for the day at an anchorage in Biscayne Bay just south of downtown Miami. It was an interesting trip through more shallow water (no surprise here) and several canal cuts through Mangroves.

One of several canal cuts through the Mangroves

While we had seen several Dolphins on this trip, these are the first good photos of them and the only ones so far of them alongside our boat.

We finally came to the first bridge which carries US 1 going from the mainland to Key Largo. After a few more miles, we crossed under the Card Sound Bridge which is an alternate route to the Keys and is the preferred route for those going to North Key Largo and the resorts on the north end of the island. 

We finally came into Biscayne Bay and came across the first commercial tow we had seen since Tampa Bay. As we approached Miami, my AIS (Automatic Identification System) went off with a warning and it showed the commercial tow. AIS functions like a transponder on an aircraft by giving the name of the boat, its heading and speed. I have my alarm radius set to 2 miles so anytime another AIS signal comes within this radius, an alarm goes off. This is exceptionally helpful in the rivers with all the bends and blind spots, but is less useful in open water like Biscayne Bay.  The biggest advantage is to be able to call a ship by name on the radio. It greatly enhances the possibility they will respond on the radio. Larger commercial ships are required to have this equipment and it is optional for pleasure craft like us.

Commercial Tow in Biscayne Bay with Miami skyline in background

As we approached the turn toward the anchorage, we came across a long line of boats at anchor in Biscayne Bay. There must have been 20 or 30 of them in all shapes and sizes including some 50 foot plus ones. We tried to figure out why all these boats were basically in line and at anchor in the Bay. We crossed more shallow water and arrived at the anchorage in No Name Harbor. This is part of a county park and they supposedly charge for anchoring. There was no one to collect, so we did not bother looking for someone to give money to, especially with all the signs saying “no mooring allowed”. It was a quiet and very well protected anchorage with two other boats in there with us for the night. This is a popular spot for cruisers to gather before going to the Bahamas. We assume that the boats at anchor in the Bay were gathering for a flotilla crossing to the Bahamas.

Sunset from the anchorage at No Name Harbor in Biscayne Bay just south of Miami

We had a casual breakfast before leaving the anchorage about 9:30 on Thursday, August 15. We crossed the remaining 5 miles of Biscayne Bay and came into Miami. All the boats we saw at anchor in the Bay yesterday were gone when we passed this area. From here, the scenery changes dramatically. Gone is the open water and low land of the Keys. Replacing it were the skyscrapers and tall condos of Miami.

View of Rickenbacker Causeway bridge with Miami skyline from Biscayne Bay

As we passed through Miami and into south Broward County and Ft. Lauderdale, we came across the first drawbridge on this leg of the trip. We would encounter three such bridges today that required opening for us to pass as our minimum air draft (clearance under a bridge) is 13 feet. The guidebooks list them at 12 feet at high tide and with a 3 foot tide; we probably could have passed under them without an opening. Unfortunately, it was high tide and the actual height was 10 feet or less on all three according to the tide boards on the fenders guarding the bridge. We were fortunate that our timing was good on all three and only had to wait a maximum of 5 minutes for an opening. These busy bridges have restricted openings on the half hour or quarter hour.

Typical drawbridge in ICW

Almost the entire trip from Miami to Ft. Lauderdale is idle speed with no wake or slow speed with minimum wake. In some places, the signs say maximum wake of 15 inches. The sides of the canals are concrete, so whatever wake you put out reflects back into the channel. This makes it rough for everyone else, and we were rocked numerous times by other discourteous boaters. As I mentioned previously, Florida does not have a 100 foot rule like Georgia making it mandatory to be at idle speed within 100 feet of other boats. We did encounter one professional captain who did a slow pass and I came back to idle to allow him to pass. Not 100% of boaters here are discourteous, but they make up the MAJORITY of boaters. It is refreshing to come across another courteous and likely, a professional captain.

Stand Up Paddleboarders - notice the life jackets?

There are countless beautiful homes, big boats, and not much active boat traffic on a weekday during this part of the trip. I’m sure that all changes on the weekends! After our 43 mile journey, we finally arrived at Lighthouse Point Marina just north of the Hillsboro Inlet.

Cleaned up and ready for dinner

We received recommendations on this marina from the guidebooks, Active Captain, and the personal recommendation of our local Division Commander for the Coast Guard Auxiliary. It has all the usual amenities of a marina with the addition of a good restaurant on the dock, and a pool. We filled up with fuel and tied up before hitting the showers.

Highly recommended by the marina staff - formerly a 1920's casino and rum-running speakeasy

For dinner, we went to Cap’s Place, a 1920’s bootlegger’s restaurant that looks just like it did way back then. We caught the water shuttle at their parking lot next to the marina. They have no place for people to park at the restaurant, so they have their own lot next to the marina. The boat runs continuously picking up and dropping off patrons. You can almost see our boat (behind the big blue boat on the left side of the picture) at dock in the marina.

View of our marina from Cap's Place dock

The food here was wonderful, but a little pricy. We had probably the best crab cake we have had in years, a hearts of palm salad (not the canned stuff) that was completely different than expected, and yellowtail snapper in a lemon sauce. The Key Lime pie was good, but not as good as the first three menu items.

National landmark - Cap's Place - Broward County's oldest restaurant

We came back to the boat for an early turn in after watching a little TV.

Friday, August 16 is the day to actually post to this blog and to relax in the pool. We edited our photos and finished this narrative before lunch. After lunch, we needed to move to the fuel dock office to get a reliable Wi-Fi signal to actually post this blog. Saturday is our day for friends and family to visit and we plan to leave Ft. Lauderdale on Sunday morning. Our next destination is an anchorage in Hobe Sound which is midway between Palm Beach and Jupiter. After one night here, we plan to move on to Vero Beach for a couple of days. Unfortunately, our good friends Paul and Kathy Bartoszewicz are away in Connecticut and we will miss them in Vero. After Vero, we plan to go to the Coco Beach area. After that, Nan Ellen will need to do additional research to determine our stops.

Sign on a truck in the parking lot at the Marina

Stay tuned for more adventures to come.